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Karen

A chainmaille rat? Or a pig? High fashion in the Art Nouveau era

a chainmaille rat purse
chainmaille rat purse

You may have seen this rat chainmaille purse doing the rounds, and I can see why! Not only is it a wonderful creation, but it’s certainly quirky and could only have come from the Edwardian/Victorian era – although it’s exact origin is unknown unfortunately.

However, in my search to uncover the origins, I discovered some equally amazing examples of animal themed chainmaille bags or purses.


Most of these pieces have come from two designers, Paul Frey and Julien Duval, who worked for Lacloche Fréres in the late 19th century. They both created animal figural pieces across the range of accessories. This focus on animals was very popular within the Art Nouveau era.


a chainmaille pig purse from Lacloche Freres
chainmaille pig purse

This first example of a pig evening bag was created by Duval. It features cabochon rubies for eyes and the tail and trotters have been embellished with rose cut diamonds. In 2021 it formed part of the auction of the Countess Mountbatten of Burma’s personal collection. It sold for a staggering £109.620 despite only having a guide price of £2000 - £3000.






a chainmaille pig purse from Lacloche Freres
chainmaille pig purse

The second example is also a pig, this time created by Frey, a very talented goldsmith. Although not as ornate, it has been crafted from 18k gold and has some wonderful detailing. I'm not entirely sure what kind of an outfit one would wear with a pig purse, but it certainly would be a talking point.







a chainmaille bat evening bag crafted from gold
chainmaille bat evening bag

The next example is personally my favourite, being a lover of all things gothic such as I am. The bat frame has been set with rose diamonds, has emeralds for eyes and at the bottom of the chainmaille purse hangs rose diamonds and pearls. It’s last known selling price was £81,250 and I think it’s worth every penny.







a chainmaille elephant evening bag crafted from gold
an elephant chainmaille bag

The final example I managed to find is this most exquisite elephant chainmaille bag. Crafted in c1890 and is complete with French maker’s marks. I didn’t manage to find who was the creator, but I’m sure you’ll agree it is stunning whoever made it.









Having made chainmaille myself, it never ceases to amaze me the workmanship that goes into the creations of others – both historical and modern. The level of intricate detail must have been incredibly time consuming and it is easy to see how they were examples of high fashion during the Art Nouveau and subsequent Arts and Crafts movement. I think this is one fashion we should definitely be bringing back, maybe that's the next direction I should explore. Now to find my pliers...


Have you come across any interesting examples of chainmaille?

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